Two fashion designers Alison Welsh and Jasper Chadprajong from
the Manchester Fashion Institute at Manchester Metropolitan University
undertook a creative residency in Thailand in November 2017 as part of the
Crafting Futures programme. They were based in Nan Province, which is on the
eastern border of northern Thailand. Welsh and Chadprajong were working in
conjunction with women weavers from the Silalang sub-district near Pua. This is
an area with inherent natural beauty surrounded by forested mountains and
extensive rice fields. It is the forests that provide the communities with the source
materials for their natural dyes. They work in tandem with the land and the
forests, maintaining a respect for the environments and the eco-culture. The
methods and processes of dyeing and weaving have been passed down through the
generations, and this ancestral wisdom is valued and celebrated. Their weaving
looms, like their traditional homes, are made by highly skilled craftsmen from
local timber. They continue to weave both for their own consumption and for
commercial reasons.
Welsh and Chadprajong visited many weavers and textile
community enterprises based in small rural villages. The weavers, all women, produce
complex traditional patterns with immense patience and concentration, on looms
they have been using since childhood. The cloth produced has inherent qualities
which possess ecological and spritual properties which reflect their personal
heritage. It was these fabrics that Welsh and Chadprajong fell in love
with. The sense of history and of skill is
visible through fabrics which take weeks to weave, fabrics which leave a trace
of the weaver with every thread. When Welsh and Chadprajong were asked to
design garments, and cut patterns for the weavers to make into clothes, their
initial response was of respect for the fabric, and the fear of cutting into
cloth which took so long to make (and which did not feel theirs to cut up). The
weavers themselves made some garments immediately, confidently and with less
fear of cutting their own cloth. The results were wearable, desirable clothes
fit for women to wear in both England and Thailand.
Welsh and Chadprajong spent two intensive weeks immersing
themselves within the culture of the villages, repeatedly visiting groups of
weavers, gradually gaining an understanding of their weaving, their natural
dying and their way of life. These communities have a distinctive working
pattern, and their daily lives are based on traditional family social
structures. The weavers normally weave for a set period of their day, worked in
amongst other roles. The women maintain a balanced way of life which is based
on a confident, caring and supportive social structure. Welsh and Chadprajong came
away with complete respect for a community which has such a strong and unique
identity.
Both Welsh and Chadprajong have gone on to make more
garments from the hand-woven fabrics in England. These new designs continue to
celebrate the inherent qualities of the cloth, the natural irregulars in the
weave and the variety of colour shades as a result of the natural dyeing. These
garments, along with the dresses made in Thailand, were exhibited at the 12th
Fae Gaem Mai’s Lanna Ethnic Exhibition in Chaing Mai, in December.
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